Kodiak Sojourn--Sunshine, History and Fish



Kodiak Harbor

           Friday morning found us landing at Kodiak, less than one hour from Anchorage. Kodiak was on our itinerary for personal reasons (see “Don Brown in Kodiak” below) but we thoroughly enjoyed our time there seeing the sights and meeting the people.

Our arrival enthusiasm was slightly dampened by an excruciatingly slow Avis rep. With one finger he made enough keystrokes to write a novel. We are not sure what he was doing but we were the last passengers to exit the compact terminal, keys in hand. On the recommendation of a local, and after driving the wrong way for about five miles, we headed to “where the locals eat,” King's Diner. It proved to be a propitious suggestion.

At the Diner Jayne, in addition to being our server, was a one woman booster for Kodiak Island. Before the omelet arrived we had recommendations for places to visit and places to eat that would keep us occupied for the next two days. She also shared places to avoid; good advice when some roads lure you in and turn to gravel a few miles along.

Baranov Museum, Kodiak

            The Best Western Kodiak Inn allowed early check in and proved to be centrally located near the fishing fleet moorage. This town and island lives and breathes fishing. We first visited the harbor master to inquire about the status of the "Karen Jean", a fishing boat formerly owned by a friend. It was out fishing. Then, up the hill to the Baranov Museum to see the “Don Brown Collection” and other artifacts. The Kodiak Wildlife Refuge Center and Alutiiq Museum were close by as well. In a short time we had done what we came to do and were ready to move on.

While we were the only “tourists” in the area, museums were teeming with grade school kids on end-of-year field trips which gave them a certain kinetic energy.

We faced two choices for our driving tour—go east or go west. Though nearly the size of Connecticut, the Kodiak Islands are rugged and relatively roadless. We could go westerly about 40 miles or easterly, about 15 miles. We turned west.

The limited roads generally follow the coast, winding around bays, then over ridges into the next valley and around the next bay. The weather changed with each valley; sun in one, snow and rain in the next, cloudy and dry in the next. On Friday alone we experienced a range of weather that, we are told, is typical of the area. The only constant was the temperature, low 40’s most of the day.

The scenery is spectacular. Rugged, snow covered hills loom over the coast, hidden when cloudy and sparkling when the sun shown bright. The hills still wear winter brown but will likely spring to green with longer days and warmer weather. The sea was barely rippled but the beaches bore evidence of winter storms that must sweep the islands.



          We were surprised at the end of our drive to encounter the Kodiak Launch Complex, an extensive facility for the launching of satellites. I have visited their web site but am still unclear why one would travel to Kodiak Island and then 40 miles down a winding road to reach a missile launch site. But then physics was not my strong subject and I’m not into orbits.

On the return, on Jayne’s recommendation, we stopped at the Olds River Inn for dinner. This place is 20 miles from anywhere. Why it’s there and why is succeeds I don’t know but the food was great and owners were typically Alaskan; gracious and friendly. I think everything but the napkins was homemade and delicious.

Saturday we turned east, toward the Fort Abercrombie State Park which sits on a high rock promontory, at one time guarding the entrance to Kodiak Harbor. We took advantage of the brilliant sunshine to hike the extensive trail system in the park, enjoying the views and exercise.



Sashimi in Kodiak



The Kodiak Military History Museum, housed in an old ammunition bunker, was well worth the visit. Staffed and maintained by a volunteer crew it contains professional exhibits focused on the islands World War II efforts. We were lucky as it opened for the season the day we visited.

Visited the King’s Diner again for lunch and a dinner recommendation from our guide, Jayne. The Old Power House Restaurant was her choice. Sushi in Kodiak? Again it was a good recommendation for a place off the beaten track.

Now it’s back to Anchorage and the waiting Chalet. No more motel beds for a while.

Don Brown in Kodiak: In 1940, with a business degree from the U. of Washington in hand, Kathy’s father, Don Brown, embarked on a big adventure—he took a job in Kodiak Alaska and headed north.

Jobs were scarce between the Great Depression and World War II so an office job with Simms-Drake Construction was appealing. Simms-Drake had a contract to construct a Navy Base on Kodiak Island and had import all the materials and people needed for the job. Don traveled by steamship to Seward and then transferred to a second ship for the trip to the island. He didn’t realize he would be there for three years.



Don made lifelong friends during that time; Larry Gourlie, Neal Mitchel, Marty Cordes to name a few. The war scattered the friends but, when it was over, Don stayed in touch with many of them his entire life. They are all gone now.



When the war came to Alaska, June of 1942, contractor personnel were enlisted in the defense of the Island. Each was issued a Springfield rifle, dating from World War I, and seven rounds of ammunition. Thus armed they were to repel any invasion attempt. No attempt was made.

In 1943 Don received permission to leave Kodiak as a crew member of a Fish and Game ship and made it back to Seattle where the Army rejected him for service due to the flat feet he developed running barefoot on his farm as a child.

In 2008 Don donated his collection of photos from that time to the Baranov Museum in Kodiak where they now reside.

Don never returned to Kodiak but it’s his memory that draws daughter Kathy there now. Little of the Kodiak he knew remains—it was destroyed by the 1964 earthquake and tsunami. He would be pleased to know she made the trip.

Kodiak Weather: After three days in Kodiak we may not be qualified to talk about the weather but, based on personal experience and talks with locals, here goes. We have experienced the following:

+  Sunny: Any sun counts and we have had a great deal. A few scattered clouds can be ignored. If you can see the sun it’s sunny.

+  Light rain/mist: You can’t see it but you are wet when you come in. Wipers on intermittent, intermittently.

 +  Rain: You can see it. Wipers on low.

+  Heavy/torrential rain: You can see, feel and hear it (as in pounding on the car.) Wipers on full.

+++  Wind may be added to all the above but we did not have to deal with wind…yea!

No Sun, No Crowd, No Problem--Haines Junction to Anchorage

            Lazy Tuesday, we were the last of three tenants to uproot and pull out of the Kluane RV park and head up our first stretch of the real Alaska Highway. In this stretch there are just miles and miles of miles and miles. Views were expansive, horizontally, but limited vertically by the clouds that clipped off the top of the surrounding mountains.

Few places are open this time of year so we took advantage of each to meet the locals and hear their tales. They are usually very friendly and enjoy speaking with travelers who express a sincere interest in their lives and local history. Stopped to fill coffee cups (not to be confused with lattes!) at Burwash Landing and in 20 minutes learned the weather and history from the owner and met the local snow plow crew, who stopped for breakfast.

We passed from British Columbia into the Yukon Territory before returning to the USA near Beaver Creek, Yukon Territory.

After what seemed like a long day we arrived in Tok, a major crossroads and one of the biggest communities in this region. Fast Eddies provided a dinner spot and the Sourdough RV park gave us a place to set up the chalet. Somewhat surprised we awoke to a 23 degree temperature (60 in the chalet) and a dusting of snow. Spring in Alaska!


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Kathy, waiting to be served.



Wednesday we left the Alaska Highway, it continued on toward Fairbanks, while we turned south on the Tok Cutoff toward Anchorage. That turned into the Glennallen Highway and landed us at the Mendeltna Creek Lodge, near nothing in particular at mile 153. The place wasn’t really open but the owner sent us into the snow covered RV lot where we found a home for the night. No one joined us!

Thursday morning was a repeat of Wednesdays—27 degrees and a dusting of snow. Rather than cook in we folded up the chalet and joined the owner for breakfast in the Lodge by a roaring fire. Good coffee and conversation.



The Chef at Work

Now we are settled in Anchorage, ready for a Friday flight to Kodiak and the next stop on the journey.

Weather Thoughtlets: We expected interesting weather on this trip and so far it hasn’t been a disappointment. Given the weather we understand why there are so few people on the road and most of the tourist stuff on the Alaska Highway is still boarded up. But, looking on the bright side:

* We don’t need reservations in RV parks.

*We don’t need to purchase ice. (Our extra drinking water is in the ice chest to keep it from freezing in the car!)

*We are not in a tent. (Our Chalet heating keeps us comfy.)

Mendeltna Lodge RV Park in the AM



*The weather is improving and should continue to do so as we head west and north.

*Everyone we meet is very friendly. (Perhaps they just want to be nice to the crazy people.)

*Only one mosquito in seven days, a large but lethargic one that fell victim to my swift reaction time.

 iPad Woes: When I purchased my iPad I had a choice for wireless; Verizon or AT&T. I chose Verizon. Good choice? I guess, if you don’t plan on traveling to Alaska. Verizon has yet to recognize the 49^th state. At least wifi is available at most RV parks and motels. But in between, your iPad is best used for solitaire or as a cutting board where connectivity is concerned.



Alaska Highway at Last



click to enlarge



On Monday the good ship Columbia deposited us in the small town of Haines, Alaska for the real start of our driving trip. We headed north, crossed into British Columbia and, finally, settled in a little place called Haines Junction, Yukon Territory, our first stop on the iconic Alaska Highway. The Alaska Highway (aka Alaska Military Highway, Alaska-Canada Highway and ALCAN) represents an amazing feat of engineering and construction. 

Constructed in 1942 as a land link to Alaska during World War II the road traverses 1523 miles from Dawson Creek, British Columbia to Fairbanks, Alaska. History buffs can click HERE for details but suffice to say, it was a herculean task over some of the most challenging real estate in North American. 11,000 U.S. troops fought mud, ice, permafrost and mosquitoes to complete the task in just seven months, less time than it takes to write an environmental impact statement today.

Over the past 70 years wooden bridges have been replaced with steel and concrete, curves have been straightened, slopes have been flattened and gravel replaced by asphalt so the current traveler faces little challenge. But it is still a long, long road and, except for summer months, services are widely spaced.

Our 300 mile stretch today, from Haines Junction to Tok, Alaska took us through beautiful country along the shores of Kulane Lake in weather that ranged from clouds to sun and rain to snow while keeping the temperature hovering below 40 degrees at all times.

Suggestion: I recommend a wonderful book that will give you a feel for life in small town Alaska. “If You Lived Here, I’d Know Your Name” by Haines author Heather Lende is available at Amazon.

The Reids trip north begins

A Traveler’s Tale: In 1947 my brother-in-law’s parents, Gib and Eileen Reid, loaded their worldly possessions onto a war surplus jeep with trailer and drove the muddy Alaska Highway to Anchorage and a homestead life. He was a war veteran and she was an English war bride who had never been out of England. Their story, The Reid’s 1947 Trip to Alaska, is an easy read with pictures.

Factoid: The borders between the U.S. and Canada do strange things in the north land. During our trip we will cross the border six times.

Alaska Marine Highway (Alaska Ferry); A Class Act



Nose to nose and bumper to bumper

           
Monday we arrived back on land in Haines, AK after experiencing two ferries of Alaska system. Conclusion: The Alaska Ferry system is a class act. It’s functional, not plush, but very suited to the needs of the northland. The crews we encountered were friendly and good at their jobs. They arrived and departed on time. The food, cafeteria fare on the Matanuska and cafeteria or sit down dining on the Columbia, was reasonably priced and very good.

Our experience boarding the Columbia in Juneau demonstrates their efficiency.

Last cars, backing on the ferry.



The car deck was originally filled in Bellingham, Washington. Then vehicles came off and on at stops along the way. When they arrived at Juneau they needed space for vehicles with reservations from Juneau. Somehow, someway, someone had calculated the space needed, with all the departures and added vehicles since Bellingham.

At 0530 the boarding crew began studying the vehicles waiting to board—how high, how long, etc. Sitting on the dock were an array of cars, trucks, campers and semi-trailers. When the boarding began they selected vehicles from the lines, like one selects pieces for a puzzle

Our car and trailer rig, 33 feet in length, was pulled from the middle of the line and sent aboard where we ended up in a lane facing a motor home. We filled the last space in the lane perfectly. 

Near the end of the loading they began backing cars onto the boat as there would be no place to turnaround later. To fit them all this car moved a little to the left. This truck went back six inches. This camper pulled forward a smidge. In one case a young man was trapped in his car with no room to open a door. Another vehicle moved forward and an escape was executed.

In the end, the last cars in line backed down the ramp and filled the last spaces on board, the ramp raised, the door closed and we were on our way.

Clear of the yellow line the door can now close with "feet" to spare.



There should have been high fives all around for a job well done but, to the loading crew, it appeared to be just another day on the job.

I found it impressive. Alaska should be proud of their marine highway system.





Thoughtlet: Toyota Can’t Find Alaska

Our 2010 Toyota Highlander came equipped with a wonderful in-dash GPS system. It can find the smallest roads in the contiguous 48 states and Canada. But it can’t find Alaska.

Before departure I called the dealer to update the software and add Alaska. Sorry, I was told. For Toyota Alaska didn’t exist prior to 2011. If I wanted Alaska on the GPS I needed to purchase a new car.

What a conundrum—new car or new map from AAA. AAA won and now we must depend on paper rather than electronics to get around the 49^th state.

It Sometimes Rains in Juneau

           When I tell people I’m from the Seattle area I often hear, “it rains a lot there doesn’t it?”

“True,” I reply. “But it’s a dry rain.”

In Southeast Alaska it rains a lot but it’s a wet rain!

As we sailed north it rained in Ketchikan, Wrangell and Petersburg. We now sit in Juneau and the rain continues, full throttle.

By some standards it doesn’t rain that much in Southeast. Juneau averages just 58 inches annually compared to 75 inches out west on Kodiak Island (where we are headed!) But, compared to this area, Seattle seems positively parched at a mere 37 inches annually.

On the ferry north we visited with a couple from Petersburg who gave me a hint of their weather pattern.

“Do you have “city” water at your home?” I asked.

Motor cycle in the rain. Note fisherman in background



“No, we have a cistern and collect water from our roof,” was the reply.

“How about in the summer, when it’s dry?”

He smiled politely. “We never run short.”

Enough said.

The interesting thing is, it doesn’t matter. Of course it rains; get over it. And get over it they do. They don’t complain or seem to let it get in the way of their activities. They just dress for the weather and get on with things.

Rainy Walk @ Mendenhall Glacier



While I filled up at a Juneau gas station a motor cycle rolled in with the driver clad in rubber boots, jeans and a good raincoat. Never mind the wind that was pushing the rain. Nearby (see photo) two guys, similarly clad, were preparing their skiff for a little fishing. Rain? Dress for it and go!

After lunch we did a short hike—in the rain—at the nearby Mendenhall Glacier and ran into entire families, hoods up, jackets zipped and boots on, enjoying the same trail.

It’s what you do if you want to live in Southeast Alaska.

Monday morning we will again board a ferry and sail north, three hours to Haines. Current Haines forecast: Rain!



Kathy and Steve at Juneau's Red Dog Saloon



A Word About Juneau: Juneau is the capital of Alaska, isolated from the rest of the state and assessable only by boat or plane. Between the state government, fishing and tourists, it is a busy place, particularly in the summer. A popular cruise ship destination it can handle several ships at once with enough jewelry, tee shirt and souvenir shops to handle the throngs. The cruise ship flood will begin the first week of May and the merchants are stocking their shelves to meet the rush.  

Life on the Alaska Marine Highway (aka Alaska Ferry)

            Life on the 400 foot Matanuska is good! While not a fancy cruise ship, our home for two nights is clean and comfortable with food and a warm bed to suit our needs. The crew is “Alaska” friendly which means warm and helpful.

Our "deluxe cabin"

We slept well with the gentle pitch and roll of the ship lulling us to sleep.

There are just four decks of interest. The vehicle deck, with room for 88 cars greets drivers. After boarding you must take what you want from your vehicle as access is not allowed while underway. If you have a pet you are allowed three escorted visits per day plus time spent in intermediate ports of call.

Next up is the cabin deck. 109 Spartan cabins are available for an extra charge. Ours is very basic; window, bunk beds, chair, drop down desk, in-suite facilities. (Think dorm room from 1960’s.) Full figured passengers might find the “compactness” a challenge.

The cabin deck clean and bright.

          The next deck, from fore to aft (that’s front to back for you landlubbers), begins in an observation lounge with a cinematic, 180 degree view (where I now write.) Next is a well appointed cocktail lounge. A small gift shop sits at the entrance to a full service cafeteria that connects to a spacious dining room aft.

The top deck has an outdoor solarium aft and a “recliner” lounge amidships.

That’s it. No pools, hot tubs or casinos but all that one would need for an enjoyable cruise up the inside passage. (We are told there are also enough life boats/rafts for all!)

We believe the surrounding scenery is spectacular but, with the low hanging clouds and rain, we can only imagine what the dark shapes on either side of our passage conceal. But we are in Alaska so the weather is neither a surprise nor disappointment.

We made our first landfall, Ketchikan about 4:00 a.m. and departed at 5:45 a.m. We chose not to do any touring. Next stop will be Wrangell then Petersburg.

The Solarium or "Roughing It" area.


Accommodations On Board: The Matanuska offers four levels of nighttime accommodations.

Super Deluxe: Cabin, described above, with outside window.

Deluxe: Cabin, described above, without window.

Semi-Roughing It: A reclining chair in the “recliner lounge.” Guests just dump their gear beside a chair and sleep in the chair or, at their option, on the carpeted floor of the lounge. Showers and rest rooms are nearby.

Roughing It: A personal tent or place on a plastic lounge outside in the solarium. If there is space, everyone can sleep under the solarium roof. No tents on this trip but later in the summer many will stay in tents erected on the deck. Guests are advised to bring duct tape to anchor their tents since conventional stakes are ineffective on the steel deck.

The two “roughing it” alternatives are typically Alaskan and available for no extra charge. Camp stoves are not permitted!

The on board cafeteria offers a full range of choices throughout the day. The cod and pot roast for Saturday dinners were home cooking at its best.

Life on the Matanuska is just fine and quintessential Alaskan.

Navigating the twisted Wrangell Narrows requires skill and nerves. Note the watchman on the bow for added insurance.

Hazelton to Prince Rupert to the Alaska Marine Highway

The Usk Ferry

      Today, Friday, we traveled to Prince Rupert to meet our Alaska Ferry for a one day and 8 hour trip to Juneau via Ketchikan, Wrangle and Petersburg. We are told we can leave the ship at each stop, if they are on schedule. We shall see.

The last 200 miles to P. Rupert surprised us. We anticipated snowy mountain ranges and winding roads but instead followed the Skeena River as it wound its way to the sea. On the way we passed by the Usk Ferry, a little one car engineless ferry that is fastened to a cable and uses the current to cross the Skeena to a small village on the other side. While not a novel idea—there used to be many such ferries on the Columbia River, for example—few remain.

We reached rainy P. Rupert at noon with a ferry check in set for 5:00 P.M. We found a great seafood restaurant, “Smiles Seafood Cafe” on the shores of “Cow Bay” in an area undergoing redevelopment. We never learned the background for the bays name but suspect a cow was involved. P. Rupert, a fishing and shipping hub, offered little for us in the rain so, after a Tim Horton’s stop, we headed for the ferry and were delighted that we could join the queue on the ferry landing. We popped open the Chalet, turned on the heat and settled in to await the Matanuska, our ferry north.

Waiting for the Matanuska

Vehicle loading was a choreographed affair; big trucks, Rv’s, trailers, cars of all types were sorted by destination—Ketchikan, Wrangell, Juneau—so they could unload in the right order at the correct port. On schedule, 8:00 P.M., we cast off and headed north. More on ship life later.



Thoughtlets on Coffee Shops: We have not seen an espresso shop since we entered Canada! While shops line the streets in Washington State towns, big and small, we have entered a Canadian coffee vacuum in Central B. C. How do these people live?

It’s not that they don’t drink coffee. Every Tim Horton’s is jammed with sippers of basic coffee. No steamed milk for this lot. The best designer drink they offer comes from a machine where they press a button and the drink comes out. Perhaps in this country of miners, loggers, farmers and truckers, designer drinks are for sissies.

We are not worried. In one day and eight hours we will be deposited back into the U.S.A. where they know the meaning of single tall skinny decaf vanilla latte, extra hot, no foam. 

Sightings: In Canada, their one dollar coin is adorned with a Loon and affectionately called a “Loonie.” In the U.S. there is a chain of stores called “Dollar Stores.” In Prince Rupert we spotted a similar store called “The Loonie Bin.” Clever?

The Matanuska in Winter